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Armand Nicolet S05

Ann — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:40:02 +0000

Hours, minutes, seconds, calendar with day, date, month and the moon phase indication – these are the standard complications for a wrist chronometer. What is really non-standard in the new Armand Nicolet watch is its outer design. The watchmaking company decided to make a very original watch, so they “put” a chronograph’s appearance on the new S05 watch: titanium case, high-end DLC (Diamond-like carbon) treatment, bezel and control buttons with rubber insertions. Inside the watch there is the automatic movement calibre AN 9201/2824-2 TNK.

As far as the outer design is concerned, the black colour adds attractiveness but makes readability lower. The date indication is realized not in a very good way: the indices are placed round the inner edge of the bezel. The good thing is that all indices and marker are covered with luminescent treatment which makes it possible to read the indications. The new Armand Nicolet timepiece is water resistant down to impressive 300 meters. The watch is secured on the wrist with a leather strap equipped with a titanium clasp coated with DLC.

The non-standard appearance of the new Armand Nicolet timepiece is actually easily explained. The brand has produced several models featuring common style. The trend is set by the chronograph with the similar functions housed by a titanium case with cast bracelet or rubber strap.

It is worth noting that the month and day indicators at the dial of the Armand Nicolet S05 wacth imitate chronograph counters. So looking at the timepiece one gets an impression of an illusion or deception.

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Armand Nicolet S05 is a post from: Watches world: pocket, wrist, skeletons, tourbillions | TimeBooth.com

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How to Choose a Watch with a Rare Calibre?

Ann — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 08:07:31 +0000

Christmas is coming! The season of presents is in full swing. And if you have not yet decided what to buy for your near and dear to delight them this post is for you. A watch is a perfect present that will remind about the pleasant moments for quite a long time. And if a watch is a rare one it may become an object of pride and delight for the rest of life.

Each amateur and connoisseur of watch mechanics is dreaming of an exclusive timepiece equipped with a rare authentic calibre. And vintage movements produced before the “quartz revolution” of the 1970s are especially precious for connoisseurs.

First these movements are considered to be more reliable: anyway their workability is proved by time. And, besides, the price for a watch with a restored movement is lower than that of modern manufactory ones.

But to tell the truth sometimes the movement itself is so rare and interesting that housed by a modern case it could be more expensive than any modern timepiece. Brilliant examples of such calibres are the legendary Angelus made by Rolex for Officine Panerai series of special mission units.

There are several ways to give a “second life” to a vintage calibre. One of them was invented by the most passionate collectors as Jorg Schauer who bought quite a big number of Durowe and Stowa movements for his watches or Cinette Robert that decided to use vintage calibres for Dubey & Schaldenbrand watches.

But among the brands producing watches with vintage calibres there are some that deserve more detailed attention. Their watches are surely ones of the most desired and sought for among those who knows what’s what in watch mechanics.

Armand Nicolet L07 Chronograph

In the 1940s-1950s the renowned brand of Armand Nicolet was assembling and decorating movements by a legendary brand Venus. So today the company can boast quite a big number of authentic chronograph movements that from time to time are used in Armand Nicolet modern collections.

At the main plate visible through the additional seconds subdial there is an engraving of a small star – the seal of Venus. And through the transparent case back one can see polished bridges and main plate, classical chronograph module with a column wheel and balance-spiral unit with a big 12-mm wheel oscillating at 18,000 bph.

The movement is originally decorated with a pattern consisting of tine parallel lines – the Cote de Nicolet pattern.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tribute to MaBu

Carl F. Bucherer launched the Manero collection in 2006 when the company was not yet an independent manufactory producing in-house movement. That’s why the tribute model of the Manero watch became one of the most important premieres in 2007.

This series is interesting for collectors first of all because of its restored vintage movements produced in times of Max Bucherer (MaBu), who was a talented painter and graphic artist, a traveller and friend of Herman Hesse’s and other famous writers.

The tribute chronograph is made in the noble style of the 1950s. It is equipped with a Valjoux 92 calibre which was one of the best chronograph movements of that time. On the basis of this very movement the modern Valjoux 7750 was created.

MareMonti Adventure Big Classic

The movements produced by once very famous manufactory A. Schild are especially important for collectors and connoisseurs of watchmaking art.

Since 1978 the manufactory had has been part of ETA.

One of the most interesting calibres made by A. Schild is AS-2063 which is the last self-winding movement produced in the 1970s before the company joined ETA.

The features of this calibre (2 days of power reserve, quick date correction, manually wound spring) are no inferior to the modern ones. Besides, it is equipped with the double Incablock system.

A big series of these calibres was purchased by MareMonti which uses the movements in its limited edition collections.

Particularly this calibre is used in the Adventure series which includes not only classical models with calendar but also skeletons and complete calendar watches as well as timepieces equipped with zodiac constellations indication.

Roamer Competence MST

In 2004 Roamer launched the Competence Original collection of watches equipped with the FHF 18.011 calibre that was originally developed by the brand in the distant 1940.

The watchmakers found 1050 prototypes of this calibre in the archives of the manufactory. The prototypes were developed and modified. This movement is manually wound. It features a side seconds hand. The calibre can boast not only exclusiveness but also a very compact size.

A year later Roamer presented one more watch equipped with a vintage movement – MST watch in square case. The watch was powered with an in-house movement Roamer 468 created in the 1950s.

How to Choose a Watch with a Rare Calibre? is a post from: Watches world: pocket, wrist, skeletons, tourbillions | TimeBooth.com

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Armand Nicolet S05

Ann — Sun, 31 May 2009 10:22:24 +0000

Armand Nicolet presents a new timepiece to replenish its S05 collection inspired by a famous watch of Monsieur Armand Nicolet that was launched in the late 1930s and produced specifically for the army. The collection achieves a highly developed and original synthesis following the gradual development of studies and tests undertaken by Armand Nicolet with the precise aim of producing a complicated underwater watch with extraordinary features and qualities. The latest novelty of the collection is Armand Nicolet S05 Day and Date watch.

The new Armand Nicolet S05 watch features a stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter. The dial is framed by a unidirectional rotary bezel. At the sides of the case there is also a screwed crown for time-setting and push-pieces. To protect the bezel, push-pieces and the crown from everyday hits the watchmakers from Armand Nicolet developed a technology of combining steel and rubber.

The dial of the new S05 watch is black, silvered or cream and boasts the distinctive applied orange luminous dots, Arabic numerals and hands. The dial is protected with sapphire crystal coated with anti reflection treatment. The screwed case back is decorated with the brand’s signature leaping fish design. Water resistance of the new Armand Nicolet watch is 200 meters.

The new watch accommodates a mechanical automatic movement Calibre Day and Date AN 2834-2.

The watch goes together with a solid steel bracelet, a sporty rubber band or an elegant calf strap. The straps re easily interchanged with the help of a special tool.

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Armand Nicolet S05 is a post from: Watches world: pocket, wrist, skeletons, tourbillions | TimeBooth.com

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BaselWorld 2009: Affordable Beauty

Ann — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 13:02:50 +0000

BaselWorld Watch and Jewellery Show 2009 is not over yet but we already may make some conclusions about the state of things in the watchmaking industry. It seems that desire of the manufacturers for creating an image of efficient managers who care about their clientele’s purses has recently become a kind of trend which can be called “affordable beauty”. Now some things that were taken for granted a year ago seem to be improper. For example last year the CEO Zenith Thierry Nataf very often used the word “aristocratic” with respect to the brand’s products. This time he made reference to quite the opposite term- namely “democratic”.

Those who presented tourbillons at the fair modestly tried not to accentuate this fact. The company which especially succeeded in this was BNB: this manufactory produced tourbillon for the several participants of the show including Concord, Boucheron, and Romain Jerome with engraved signs of currencies at the moon-dust dial.

Enough for the “beautiful”, let’s get back to “affordable”. Among the funniest consequences of the world financial meltdown are legends created by the manufacturers about the reasons for designing in-house calibres. The new theory has replaced the terrifying story about embargo for ЕТА: doing so the companies may themselves modify components of the movement and use different materials which will allow to bring down the cost of timepieces.

And here is one more curious phenomenon of economy’s total power over people’s minds: the trend for replaceable leather straps has become its first victim. That was proved by the Armand Nicolet stand. If earlier replaceable straps were considered to be a very practical and economical variant now the clients find it non-advantageous – why one should pay more for two straps and a replacement device and complicated clasp? Isn’t it better decide beforehand what watch you want – with a strap or with a bracelet?..

BaselWorld 2009: Affordable Beauty is a post from: Watches world: pocket, wrist, skeletons, tourbillions | TimeBooth.com

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Armand Nicolet L08 and LS8

Ann — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 15:19:42 +0000

The renowned Swiss watchmaking brand Armand Nicolet unveils two limited edition collections of timepieces - L08 and LS8. On the basis of the new watches there is a calibre created in 1957 - AN0711A - modernized in 2008. The manually wound movement provides 34 hours of power reserve. So the watchmaking company from Tramelan continues the tradition started in 2003 with the series Limited Edition, L06 and L07.

The new LS8 watch by Armand Nicolet features an openwork skeletonized dial housed by a steel case accompanied with rose gold bezel. The case masures 43 mm in diameter and is equipped with AR-coated sapphire crystal. The watch is 50 meters water resistant. The series is limited to 200 timepieces.

A more simple variant - L08 watch – features a dial partially hiding skeletonized parts of the movement. The watch is presented in 4 variants: black or grey dial, steel, steel diamond-set or rose gold bezel. Each variant is limited to 150 copies.

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Armand Nicolet L08 and LS8 is a post from: Watches world: pocket, wrist, skeletons, tourbillions | TimeBooth.com

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